Installation Notes & Setup:
Ti2 Racing brakes install in a similar manner to any typical dual pivot
If retrofitting from a previous brake install, the only issue we have
seen is on carbon frames and forks where the serrated washer
previously used had dug into the clear coat on the carbon leaving an
uneven mounting surface for the brakes. If this is the case, we
recommend re-using the serrated washers so the brakes have a
stable surface to mount to.
The position of the brake levers when they first engage, i.e. the gap
from the brake pads to the rims, is very important to how the brakes
respond. If you have a small gap and the levers engage fairly quickly
as you pull them back towards the bars, the power comes on sooner
(of course) and ramps up more quickly than if you engage the levers
later. The trade off with this is you loose modulation and “feel”
somewhat. To some extent, it is a purely personal preference where
you set the brake levers to first engage. Please experiment to
determine what position is best for you.
To facilitate this, and also if you are installing them with Shimano
levers, initially have the barrel adjusters set so there is roughly 4mm
of thread showing when the installation is complete. This will allow
you to spin the barrel adjusters down, which will open up the calipers
and engage the brake levers later. Because there is not a classic style
quick release on the caliper, it will also allow you to open up the arms
to remove/install wider tires if mated with Shimano levers.
The little hex wrench, size 1/16”, is for the arm side-to-side FINE
However, most people just grab the whole caliper and rotate it to
center the arms, the same as they do with any other dual pivot brake.
Either way works.
The extra 7075-T6 blue anodized M4 screw is a replacement for the
setscrews that hold the pads in the pad holders. You don’t have to
tighten them down very much because they are non-load bearing and
just have to hold themselves in place. But at some point you may lose
one, or will over-tighten one and start to strip the hex. Hence the
need for a replacement.